In Bruges (18) ***

11:28am Friday 18th April 2008

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BLESSED with the same moribund wit and explosive violence as his Oliver Award-winning stage plays, Martin McDonagh's feature film directorial debut is a gloriously offbeat jaunt through modern day Belgium in the company of two hopelessly mismatched hit men.

The majestic belfry towers and rosary stalls of Bruges provide the unlikely backdrop for a blackly humorous tale of betrayal and redemption.

McDonagh's ear for dialogue is acute as ever and he gifts Colin Farrell and Brendan Gleeson some wonderfully foul-mouthed exchanges in which their hapless assassins debate the pleasures of sightseeing versus continental beer, with unexpectedly moving consequences.

The Belgian tourist board will be delighted with glimpses of many of the city's most popular tourist attractions including the Basilica of the Holy Blood and the Groeninge Museum with its rich collection of Flemish expressionist art.

However, the beautiful market square and surrounding side streets are spattered with enough blood to suggest the characters won't be welcome back.

In the aftermath of a bungled hit that results in the senseless death of a little boy in church, gunmen for hire Ray (Farrell) and Ken (Gleeson) head for the continent to await instructions from their fiery-tempered crime boss, Harry (Ralph Fiennes).

Ken is delighted by the unexpected detour - "Bruges is the best-preserved medieval city in Belgium!'' he gushes, eagerly compiling a full itinerary of historical hotspots.

However, Ray is unmoved by the cobbled streets and breathtaking gothic architecture.

Like a petulant teenager, he wastes no time in letting Ken know that he would rather wile away the hours drowning his sorrows and flirting with the locals.

Ray plies his Oirish charm on beautiful drug dealer Chloe and Ken finally learns his next assignment - one which he must keep secret from his partner in crime.

Racked with guilt, Ken seeks a way out of his predicament while Ray also befriends dwarf American actor Jimmy, who will play a pivotal role in the hit men's fate.

In Bruges relies on the rapid verbal jousting between Gleeson and Farrell and both actors are in fine form.

The rapport is interrupted by an undernourished romantic subplot and the arrival of Fiennes' Mr Big, complete with shocking cockney accent.

Tensions between the crime boss and his underlings escalate into a full-blown running battle.

"Why don't you put your guns down and go home?'' demands a hotelier meekly.

"Don't be stupid,'' sneers Harry, "this is the shoot-out.'' That told her.

• See it at ABC