“It is no coincidence that, on all four sides, in all four corners, the borders of the Roman Empire stopped where wine could no longer be made” – Neel Burton.

It’s coming up to that time of the year again, the annual day to say thank you for being a mum – and what could be better for a wine-loving mum than a grape she has never tried? It’s time to try Bonarda, a grape that sounds as appealing as an enema, but name aside, the Argentinians have come up with a winner with this one.

It’s had a few false starts over the last few years but I for one reckon that 2019 is going to be a breakthrough year for the grape, and deservedly so. Argentine Bonarda is a different grape entirely from any Italian Bonardas you may have butchered your palates with over the years, so make sure you aim for the right continent first.

While they’ve been producing it for years and it’s now the second most-planted variety to Malbec, the earlier attempts were about as appealing as back-to-back episodes of Jeremy Kyle. The quality of the winemaking in Argentina has increased exponentially over the last 20 years, though, and it’s highlighted particularly well with this grape. Over the years it’s been compared to Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet, and Syrah but I think it’s actually so distinct that comparisons belittle it. Yes, it’s got the plumminess of many Merlots, and the ripe cherries of a decent Malbec, it’s also got the dark autumn fruits of Cabernet, and the spice of Syrah, so basically it’s got more faces than the town hall clock and that alone makes it quite unique.

It’s intensely aromatic, to the point where your nose can often feel punched by the aromas, and it’s also rustic, but more like an earthy St Emilion than a rough pimply-faced farm lad. The palate is laden with fruit, soft tannins and layer after layer of side flavours such as spice, leather, and cocoa, and every one I’ve tried recently has left me feeling depressed when the bottle was empty.

Bonarda is fruity enough to be enjoyed on its own if that’s your preference, but it’s low levels of tannins and its relatively high acidity make it a fabulous wine to pair with food, especially spicy foods or strong flavours such as a steak a la napalm on the barbeque.

GERARD'S PICKS

  • Joffre Gran Bonarda, Argentina: Dark and intense, but the nose opens up very fast. Heaps, and I literally mean heaps of lively fruit doing some sort of samba on your palate. A real corker. Richardsons of Whitehaven, £17.95.
  • Butcher's Block Bonarda Malbec, Argentina: Lighter than many Bonardas but it still has lively excitable fruit that just seems so desperate to please. Great with spicy meat dishes. M&S, £7.