Anglo-French cuisine brings fresh tastes to a 17th-century coaching inn, writes Sandra Carter.

New chefs, new dishes, old ghosts… this historic inn has seen so many over the 300 years since it first opened as a hostelry on the London to Oxford Road.

And now the George & Dragon at West Wycombe welcomes yet another host to serve locals and the many who are attracted to this picturesque National Trust village.

The traditional bar, the flagstones and the cobbled courtyard are still here, but the menu has lots of fresh features.

The inn’s new owner Arnaud Stevens brings a love of French food from his French mother, the best of British from his chef training and Michelin-star experience with the likes of Gordon Ramsay and Gary Rhodes, and a reputation for contemporary chic at his Shoreditch restaurant Plate.

Arnaud lives just up the road and sources many of his ingredients from the local area, especially the West Wycombe estate.

You could call this country fare with sophisticated twists.

My partner began his meal with a true taste of the Chiltern hills: Dashwood Estate game terrine, a magnificent marriage of venison, muntjac, pork and bacon enlivened with apple chutney.

My starter was a more delicate affair, a very pleasant fish cake (in a ball shape) nestling in a tasty beurre tartare.

The Rebellion ale bread with whipped crème fraîche butter was outstanding and I wished I could buy a loaf.

A main of whole roasted seabass ticked every box: served whole but deboned, stuffed with lemon and thyme, surrounded by clams and samphire.

A grilled spatchcock poussin was equally perfectly cooked, with gorgeous skinny chips.

I’m still wondering how chef makes hispi cabbage so moist and tasty (something to do with caramelised onions), while I had to ask how a side dish of heritage tomatoes achieves star status (the secret: a Cabernet vinegar and vanilla seed dressing).

Our desserts of gooseberry crème brûlée and chocolate mousse with raspberry coulis, fresh and fruity, completed a very enjoyable meal served by friendly staff in unspoilt historic surroundings.

The George & Dragon is the haunt of Chiltern ramblers, shooting parties, history fans and ghosthunters (it’s the forlorn maid Sukie they’re after), who can eat in the garden, the bar or the beamed and flagstone restaurant or stay in one of its country-style bedrooms.

See georgeanddragonhotel.co.uk.