Sindhu starts with a distinct advantage over most other Indian restaurants. Approaching it sets us in the mood to be pleased, as we walk past the Compleat Angler hotel lawns and stop to admire the view of the Thames sparkling in the early evening sunshine, with the iconic Marlow bridge and church beyond.

We’re seated at a table overlooking the tumbling waters of the weir where geese are taking their evening strut-about, and we’re ready for flavour adventure. Like most of the diners tonight, we choose the seven-course tasting menu.

Atul Kochhar, the first Indian chef to win a Michelin star, earned fame by cleverly blending our local produce with vibrant spicing drawn from traditions across India. Sindhu at the Compleat Angler is one of his three restaurants (including Hawkyns at Amersham), with another due to open soon in London. His many TV appearances and his cookbooks have won a big fanbase. Atul is not here this evening, though he’s often in Marlow to inspire the team.

Poppadums and crackers come complimentary with dips, and we are immediately assailed by tempting aromas. There’s a chutney, a salsa and an amazingly fragrant blend of fresh coriander, garlic, ginger and chickpeas.

The first of the seven dishes is my least favourite: potato coated in spices and deep fried, along with broad beans. But then comes an absolute delight, a pan-seared scallop with ‘textures of cauliflower and curry leaf sand’. Cauli has never been treated with such grace and flavour, one portion creamed to a light puree, another spiced and fried, and a third pickled.

We are beginning to appreciate Atul’s take on spicing: never overpowering, sometimes subtle, sometimes incisive and always aromatic. From an extensive wine list I enjoy my first taste of an Indian wine made from grapes and mango, amazingly good.

Salmon now takes up the spicing theme, beautifully cooked, coming with chilli asparagus and a Tamil coconut curry sauce.

After a dainty pineapple granita with a lovely hint of star anise comes duck breast with south Indian spices, red cabbage and spiced orange and curry jus. A choice of lamb chop or venison is offered, and we have one of each between us. The lamb is gently spiced and tender, the venison steak served with a tasty mince and a chocolate curry, absolutely gorgeous.

Finally our dessert, a trendy trio. The banana tart is forgettable, but not the chocolate bombe which melts beneath a pouring of hot chocolate sauce. Together with the rose bhapa doi, a baked yogurt must-have at Bengali weddings, these are the perfect ending to a very different kind of Indian meal.

There are two restaurants at the Compleat Angler - the hotel restaurant and Sindhu, sindhurestaurant.co.uk