It is the first heatwave of the year and everyone is sweltering. Everyone, that is, apart from me, because I am floating in an outdoor pool at one of the county’s newest luxury hotels.
The hotel may well be new, but the brand certainly isn't. Ask almost any woman in Berkshire about her go-to place for a bit of pampering and there is a high chance she will mention Nirvana Spa. The Sindlesham oasis, close to the M4, has built a formidable reputation over the past 20 years as a place to switch off, with up to 1,000 visitors a day across its spa, gym and leisure facilities and more than 23,000 members, according to management.
The only problem is that eventually you have to leave. After a day of swimming, relaxing and treatments, the prospect of getting dressed and returning to normal life can feel rather unfair. The idea of a hotel has been talked about for years. And now West Court Retreat, Nirvana’s first hotel, is the answer to that problem.
It is not based at the same site but a short drive away in Finchampstead. And hotel residents may be lucky enough to find themselves chauffeured between the two in a Bentley, as I was during my visit. It is almost a shame the drive is so short.
West Court is a proper county house hotel - and arguably a destination in its own right - rather than an add-on of the spa. The 17th-century Grade II-listed manor has a fascinating history, beginning life as a sprawling family home from the 1700s until 1931 where it played an important role during the war effort. During the Second World War, it became a secret training base for the Secret Service before later serving as the Officers’ Mess for the Corps of Royal Electrical and Mechanical Engineers.
My home for the night was the Princess Marina Suite, one of the Manor House Luxury Suites, and it was genuinely unlike anywhere I have stayed before. The huge room retained original features including wood-panelled walls and period furnishings, while its view across the grounds, with roses, flowers and wildlife beyond, made it feel a world away from the hustle and bustle of town. It was a fitting reflection of the hotel’s rich backstory.
There was a separate dressing area, a large bathroom with a copper freestanding bath and walk-in shower, and then the bedroom itself, complete with a seating area and desk. The super-king bed was so inviting I had to jump on it as soon as I arrived. With soft pillows, layered blankets, dressing gowns, a high-end coffee machine and a stocked mini-bar, it was very easy to settle in.
The little touches were particularly good, including classic books left out to read. I attempted Wuthering Heights, although I suspect the bed won that particular battle.
After being driven to Nirvana for lunch and an afternoon of relaxation, I opted for a halloumi flatbread and pomegranate salad before making the most of the spa facilities ahead of my treatment. Nirvana can be busy, particularly around the outdoor jacuzzis, where you may have to wait for a space, but it never feels overwhelmingly crowded. There was a mixture of couples, friends and people enjoying a day alone, creating a relaxed and enjoyable atmosphere rather than anything stuffy or overly formal.
My 35-minute African Journey Back Massage was exactly what I needed. The treatment room was dark and calming, the oils smelled wonderful and by the end I was so relaxed I was almost asleep. My only complaint was that it had to end.
Back at West Court, a superb dinner at the restaurant followed before I retreated to my beautiful room. The hotel’s attention to detail is clear throughout, from the interiors to the service, and chatting to one of the managers gave me an insight into just how much work has gone into bringing the historic property to life.
The next morning, I woke up and, rather wonderfully, didn’t have to go home. Instead, I could put on my robe and take an early swim in the beautiful heated outdoor pool before breakfast.
And that, ultimately, is the genius of West Court Retreat. It takes everything that makes Nirvana so appealing and removes the one thing that has always brought the experience to an abrupt end - having to leave. I certainly didn’t want to.
For more information about spa break packages at Nirvana, visit https://online.nirvanaspacollection.co.uk or call West Court Retreat on 0118 227 7113.
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