COCHIN is far, far removed from the usual Indian eaterie. Forget fiery vindaloo and palate-busting Madras. In fact its owner Mujibul Hoque suggests not thinking of it as an Indian restaurant at all.

"It's really a fish restaurant," he says, "but with many vegetarian and meat dishes as well, all cooked in the unique style of south coastal India."

So Cochin, on Chesham High Street, is not hot, it's subtley spiced and very flavoursome.

Cochin, he explains, is the historic city in the state of Kerala in south-west India, known as the Spice Coast. Pictures around the walls and in the book Mujibul can show you reveal a beguiling land of placid lagoons, lush mountains and the warm waters of the Arabian sea.

The spices have drawn travellers for millennia, from ancient China and, according to legend, even Solomon's ships, while later settlers brought cuisines from many countries. So fish is king, redolent of the spices of this favoured land.

Presiding in the kitchen is Narayanan Karolil, who was a head chef in the Cochin area for five years before coming to England in 1998 to develop a new concept in Indian food in London, becoming group head chef for a restaurant chain.

He then opened Cochin restaurant in Hemel Hempstead in 2001, which won the Best Vegetarian and Fish Selection award in the Herts food awards 2002.

As a Hindu and a vegetarian, he takes veggie food seriously so there's plenty of imaginative veggie dishes on the menu. But he also creates good food for carnivores.

He set up Cochin on Chesham High Street in February with his business partner Mojibul Hoque, who brings long experience at the Chesham Tandoori which his family runs. So Cochin combines authentic south Indian cuisine with the style of courteous service at which Bangladeshis can excel.

A good way to start is with poppadums and chutneys. These are fun and original: deep fried green banana chips, papadums with cumin, and an intriguing waffle type of bread. Six dinky little dishes bear a medley of chutneys, from mango and coconut to prawn chutney, garlic to kingfish.

You might like to try Cochin fish soup, a splendid medley of finely diced squid, prawns and other seafood with subtle spicing.

Or try a selection of starter dishes. Some are similar to traditional Indian restaurant fare, like onion bhajis and deep fried aubergines, but there are also fat juicy king prawns and chunks of fish in a very tasty batter.

Main courses can be whole lobster, or whole sea bass marinated in a masala of coriander leaves, mint, ginger and garlic then steamed. Or there are various dishes with chunks of kingfish cooked with ginger, chillies and coconut milk. We chose lemon sole in a coconut-infused sauce excellent.

The delight of an Indian meal of course is to have lots of small dishes on the table together. Our chicken roast dish was superb, flavoured not with curry spices but with curry leaves, coriander and fresh coconut. A curry of vegetables was excellent, and along with one of the aubergine dishes would leave any vegetarian feeling they'd been spoilt.

A most unusual accompaniment, alongside the coconut rice, was appam dosa, a kind of soft and moist pancake made with rice flour, which was deliciously different.

The varied wine list includes red, white and ros. Our Italian white Pinot Grigio was excellent and perfect with both fish and meat dishes.

Desserts aren't usually a strong point at an Indian, but the Cochin has two south Indian specialities. Kesari is a Brahmin recipe of semolina, mango, cashew and raisins served with mango sorbet. Mojibul wanted us to try his favourite, banana dosa, which was the grand finale to a most enjoyable meal: a kind of warm American pancake containing banana, topped with coconut ice cream.

Then it's back to the best of European, with freshly ground cappuccino.

Couples at two adjoining tables were comparing notes on local Indian restaurants and agreeing that this newcomer to the scene offers something very different and very welcome.