Istanbul: An astonishing variety of sights and experiences

"The road will you take away to another place or will you reach a big success," it read in broken English. "After this road your position will be improved."

OK, not a life-changing prophecy, but not a bad prediction when you consider the soothsayer was a Turkish white rabbit and managed to find one written in my own language.

It might sound like a scene from the Mad Hatter's Tea Party and it's certainly also a wonderland, because when you visit Istanbul you'll be assailed by an astonishing variety of sights and experiences. The former capital of three successive empires, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman, Istanbul honours and preserves its impressive past legacy whilst embracing a modern future.

Straddling two continents, with one foot in Europe and the other in Asia, this exciting city is exotic, romantic and cosmopolitan.

One minute you can be haggling at bazaars, piled high with pungent spices and little changed over the centuries, and the next be drinking at a trendy bar and club, like Bobos that would not be out of place in London or other major city. Here is the last European stop for the Orient Express, which brought its first well-heeled tourists into Sirkeci Station in 1883, and nearby is the hotel where Agatha Christie wrote part of her famous on-board murder story.

Less than four hours away, Istanbul is a feasible weekend break option. And although you can scratch the surface in a couple of days, you'll want to go back for more.

If time is limited certain "must sees" include Topkapi Palace, where you will be dazzled by the collection of jewels that were mostly worn by men. Sultanahmet, commonly known as the Blue Mosque for the 21,000 plus tiles that colour the vast interior, is another. Built between 1609 and 1660, and the only mosque in the world with six minarets, it's worth putting up with the inevitable crowds who file through carrying their shoes in the plastic bags provided at the entrance. Nearby is Haghia Sophia, first a church, then a mosque and now a museum.

If you want to see other mosques you'll be spoilt for choice as there are nearly 3,000 in Istanbul. Non-Muslims are welcome to visit any of them but always be prepared to take off your shoes and remember shorts and bare shoulders are not tolerated.

No visit would be complete without a foray into the Old City's Kapali Carsi, or covered bazaar. A labyrinth of streets and passages, this veritable Aladdin's Cave has more than 4,000 shops and stalls stacked high with jewellery, carpets, clothes and "magic eye" symbols in every imaginable size. Window shopping isn't an option as any interest in the goods will be met with welcoming banter from shopkeepers eager to strike a deal and, in the case of larger items, haggle over cups of sweet tea. But pestering is good natured and you can get some fantastic bargains, particularly leather bags and coats and pashminas.

Whatever you buy you'll still be a millionaire at the end of your shopping trip. One million Turkish lira is around 50p, but while many things are inexpensive you need to be careful you don't make a taxi driver or waiter's day by handing over a vastly inflated sum by mistake.

The Egyptian Market, or Spice Bazaar, near the Eminonu ferry terminal really does recreate childhood images fuelled by books about the Far East. Jewel-coloured fruits and spices are shaped into neat conical piles and the air is filled with the pungent scent of cinnamon, caraway, saffron, mint and every other imaginable spice. This is the place to buy Turkish Delight, a world away from the brightly coloured confection masquerading under the same name in our sweetshops. Studded with nuts or subtly flavoured, various varieties are on offer and you can always taste before you buy. Outside, the altogether more unsavoury sight of jars of leeches is a little harder to stomach. And if you want to get a fairly tenuous idea of what the future holds this is where the fortune telling rabbit holds court.

Through the heart of the city runs the Bosphorus strait, linking the Mediterranean with the Black Sea. Day and night patient fishermen and food vendors line bridges over the bustling section known the Golden Horn. Whilst you need to wander around to soak up the atmosphere it is a very large, sprawling city so take inexpensive taxis or guided tours to travel between the sights.

Istanbul's food is good, particularly fish, and we had a feast at Neyzen, one of the restaurants in the lively Kumkapi district. For a more sophisticated dinner the elegant Zeyrekhane, beyond wooden houses in the narrow streets of Zeyrek, serves beautifully flavoured Ottoman cuisine. Everywhere you will find traditional desserts, a challenge to even the most sweet-toothed.

Lose your inhibitions, and the grime of long day sightseeing, in a Turkish Bath or hammam. Cagaloglu, built by a sultan, is one of around 300 in the city and among the most historic. With separate baths for men and women you are given a tea towel-like wrap, to cover any initial modesty, and a pair of wooden clogs to clip clop into the main bath, a tranquil room where sunlight filters through stars in the domed roof and falls onto marble circle where you are soaked, scrubbed, soaped and massaged. The attendants even wash and brush your hair, which transports you right back to your childhood, along with the face flannelling that follows! An incomparable and unchanged authentic experience, the £12 "full works" leaves you polished and squeaky clean.

For top accommodation, and stunning views of the city and Bosphorus, check into the Conrad Istanbul, which has just undergone a multi-million pound refurbishment. Ideally located in the heart of the city centre it has an executive floor, which is perfect for a luxury break, and superb facilities throughout the rest of the hotel, including the chic Prego restaurant, Incidentally, men can enjoy one of the best views from the gents' toilet in the elegant Summit Bar!

Whether you fancy having your fortune told by a bi-lingual bunny or simply want to savour the dual Turkish delights of east and west, Istanbul is a unique destination.

FACTFILE

Conrad Istanbul offers weekend executive floor leisure rates from approx. £105, plus VAT, per person, per night inclusive of breakfast in lounge. The many executive floor privileges include private check-in and check-out, soft drinks all day, snacks and alcoholic drinks between 5pm-9pm and airport pick-up. UK Reservations 08705 909090 or visit http://www.ConradHotels.com.

Meptur Destination Management Services include hotel bookings, transfers, sightseeing tours and packages for groups and special interest tours. Call 00 90 212 275 0250.

Turkish Airlines fly from Heathrow three times daily from £159 return. Call 020 7766 9300 or book online at http://www.turkishairlines.com.

For more information contact the Turkish Tourist Office on 020 7355 4207 or visit http://www.turizm.gov.tr.

Written by Jeannine Williamson

The Argus, Brighton 25/11/2002

January 22, 2003 13:00