Jeremy Austin returns to Poco Loco, where the cuisine still transports him to foodie heaven PERHAPS I should declare an interest before starting this week's review. Poco Loco is my favourite restaurant in Bucks. If there is anything to celebrate, chances are my wife and I will end up celebrating it at this intimate eating house opposite the station in Bourne End. Hen nights, birthdays and New Year's Eve - have all been flavoured with the restaurant's Tex-Mex food and toasted with their exotic cocktails.

It is certainly the most authentic of the Mexican places in the area.

Inside, the sand-coloured colour-washed walls are decorated with ponchos and Mexican posters and latin music salsas from the speakers (we were right underneath one. It wasn't too loud, but was playing European dance music by the end of the meal which was a little incongruous).

A range of Mexican beers graces the drinks menu and often Spanish chatter emanates from the kitchen.

The food, too, has a home-cooked, authentic taste that none of the other Tex-Mex places in the district seem to be able to create. This quality does not come cheap. Poco Loco is a little more expensive than its contemporaries. Save up and go. You will not be disappointed.

The nachos, the dish that we are trying in all restaurants in this series as a sort of bench mark, had been created for its taste rather than its appearance.

A mass of tortilla chips sat in the middle of the plate with cheese melted over and between the crunchy layers. Every now and then a chilli pepper would appear. The dish had been grilled - some of the chips were charred and it tasted divine.

Poco Loco's guacamole is the best anywhere (except at my house) and the salsa was just right, a perfect compromise between cool and spicey.

We both opted for fajitas for our main course. The fillings were delivered steaming to our table - huge mounds of food and more than enough to fill four tortillas.

My wife's pieces of chicken were coated in a delicious concoction of spices and my vegetables were char-grilled to exactly the right point. Every mouthful was a piece of Heaven. Every dribble of sauce down the fingers, a stream of nectar from the gods. If you think I'm over the top, go and see.

As the music above our heads moved from Mexico City to an Ibizan disco, we were given our desserts. Pecan pie with a sprinkling of almonds, served with lashings of cream for me. A toffee cheesecake with ice-cream for my wife. It was so just right, we floated home. Menu Nachos: £3.95

Chicken fajitas: £10.50

Vegetable fajitas: £9.75

Pecan Royale: £2.95

Cheesecake: £2.95

Two bottles of Sol Mexican beer: £4.50

Total: £34.60

This is an independent review Quality of food: A little slice of heaven.

Quantity of food: Lashings, but savour it and you'll fit it in.

Value for money: Comparatively a little pricey, but worth every penny.

Atmosphere: Can be very authentic. When they switch the tempo of mood music it's a little disconcerting.

Would you recommend it? More than breathing.

Marks out of ten: Nine. Poco Loco Mexican Restaurant, Station Road, Bourne End. Tel: (01628) 530333

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