JUST what is it about Barbara Windsor that's so unforgettable? It's years since the Carry On star made occasional appearances behind the bar at her former husband's pub. Yet The Plough at Winchmore Hill is still irredeemably linked with the bubbly blonde.

So is her presence haunting The Plough's new manager, Oliver Barker, or does he relish the starry link?

Actually, he seems bemused by the fuss. Perhaps it's because he worked for five years at Coutts in the City, managing the portfolios of captains of industry, so isn't as fazed by celebrity as we Bucks peasants.

Even so, he was surprised when he went to collect his pub licence to be asked by the judge: "The Plough isn't that Barbara Windsor's place?"

The answer, of course, is no. And it's a very different place from a decade ago. It's now nearly two years since The Plough had a hugely expensive revamp, transforming it from typical rural hostelry to a very smart, contemporary restaurant with cosy leather-sofa bar at one end.

There was a hiccup over Christmas when a mysterious ownership change took place and the pub closed up overnight. Now there's a whole new team in place, keen to show south Bucks what they can do in the upper-bracket dining scene.

Oliver sets the upmarket tone. He comes across as a young City gent on his day off, full of intelligent conversation and well bred manners. Only it isn't his day off, this is now his chosen career and he's clearly loving it. If you want to meet him (not to discuss your portfolio, please) don't go on Wednesdays as that's when he's back up to town to study for his diploma in wine.

He was presiding at Thackerays in Kent when it won a Michelin star. The Plough isn't about stars of either kind, he says, but about very good food in a relaxed setting. Very good it is, too.

For me it began with smoked goose breast, proving there's still plenty more taste sensations out there for me to discover. This came warm as a salad over a crispy potato rosti and white truffle jus (£6.25). Smoking tends to make everything taste a bit bacony to my tastebuds but it was an intriguing and artfully prepared starter.

My husband had eyes only for his foie gras and chicken liver parfait with pear chutney (£7.25), which he declared the finest pate he'd tasted for years. He became quite a bore, carrying on about it throughout the meal.

He then chose slow roasted Gloucester Old Spot pork belly (£12.50), sourced from Bennetts farm in the village. The crackling was a wonder of crispiness, the grain mustard mash and crisp pancetta a worthy sidekick.

For me a simple roasted cod fillet with horseradish mash and chive butter sauce (£13.50). There's nothing like a piece of cod to test a chef's knack with timing and temperature and this was excellent.

You need to order your veg separately here if you want some (£2). With everything devised and executed with such care and imagination, I was surprised the veg choice was simply beans or mange-tout. A mixed dish of ratatouille or roasted Mediterranean veggies, or just a mixed platter, would have been great with my cod.

No matter, puds were to come (all £5.50). Superb, they were. Apple tart tatin was gloriously rich in its caramel, juicy in its fruit, and ably supported by a creme fraiche and black pepper sorbet. Hubby chose sorbets and ice creams, all home made: mango, raspberry, and the most wonderful blackcurrant. The ices alone will be enough to draw me back.

The prices are fair value for this kind of quality, but if you'd like an inexpensive nosey around The Plough, try lunchtime when a simpler set menu comes in at £9.95 for two courses, £11.95 for three.