From the outside The Bel (as Bell and The Dragon, in Cookham, is often referred to locally) has changed little over centuries, but step through the low-beamed, quaint bar into the restaurant and it opens up, Tardis-like, into something quite different.

The large dining area is stylish and airy, with lots of modern touches and uber-trendy industrial-style fittings, Farrow & Ball painted furniture and a buzzing atmosphere.

The young waiting staff (some wearing shorts on that warm summer’s evening) are friendly and efficient. We were led to a comfy corner table from where we could see the bustling open kitchen, large groups of friends, dating couples and several families enjoying their Friday night dinner.

The menu is not vast (thankfully), but covers all bases with fresh fish, rotisserie, pasta dishes and grills all represented.

Tempting dishes like chicken Milanese and black truffle oil with creamed spinach and hen’s egg, Josper-grilled sea bass and red peppers with shaved fennel, olive oil and lemon zest and roasted suckling pig with crispy crackling and spiced apple chutney were all considered.

But I chose the seared Cornish scallops and pancetta with a shallot and pea purée and maple syrup to start. Plump, perfectly cooked scallops nestled in shells with their accompaniments, and the dish was delightful.

Hubby thoroughly enjoyed his Devonshire mussels and crusty bread in a flavoursome Scrumpy Jack cider and bacon broth. Plenty of rich sauce for us both to dip his bread into. Yummy.

For mains, one of the daily specials; pan roasted salmon with chorizo and shrimp butter and market veg sound perfect for a warm Summer’s evening so I chose that.

The seasonal market veg (including broccoli, mangetout and radish) were all in little bite-size pieces combined beautifully by the melted butter sauce and topped by a perfectly roasted slab of succulent salmon. Hubby’s linguini of Devon crab was rich and tasty.

Our food was washed down with a very decent house wine which is served in a 1½ litre carafe and you pay for what you drink.

To round off the meal we sampled the pack-a-punch house speciality cocktail, an Espresso Martini (espresso, Kalua and vodka vigorously shaken, not stirred) prepared by barman Luke.

On a cooler evening I’m sure I’d have happily devoured a portion of Eton Mess or passion fruit panna cotta with summer berries and honeycomb from the tempting desserts menu.

Executive chef Ronnie Kimbugwe has guided the kitchens for the Bel & Dragon group for five years (they have other restaurants in Kingsclere, Odiham, Reading and Windsor).

He says: “I believe in creating menus that offer guests an experience as well as a meal.”

Well, we certainly enjoyed both.