There is much confusion around the world as to what exactly constitutes organic wine.

There are some basic principles - firstly the soil in which the vines grow. Organic winemakers only add manure and compost to the soil, rather than chemicals. They argue that by adding chemicals - which are basically the same the world over - it reduces the importance of terroir - the unique constituents of where a vine grows so loved by the French.

The next is the complete ban on pesticides, which is quite tricky because there are lots of bugs around that just love to eat vine leaves.

The other principle is the natural protection of the environment.

Organic winemaking became popular in the late 80s and early 90s mainly in response to people's concerns about chemical - primarily pesticide - residues in wine. There were also concerns about vineyard workers' health, certainly in France, where pesticide poisonings were not uncommon.

Surprisingly it is not California or New Zealand but France that remains the bastion of organic wine. It boasts over half of the world's 500 registered organic wine producers. Organic wine, often called vin biologique, is primarily made in the warmer drier climate of the south.

It's much easier to forgo the use of chemicals if the sun shines. That having been said, there are organic producers in all of the major wine areas.

What most organic winemakers try to do is replace the chemicals with plants which carry out the same function, so a vineyard might have alternate rows of radishes, tomatoes, mustard or clover. These are delightfully named companion plants. Others introduce specially bred bugs or mites to control pests.

Chateau du Parc coteaux du Languedoc organic 2000 - Marks and Spencer, £4.99: This red wine is made by winemakers Arnaud l'Epine and Guy Bascou exclusively for M&S, from the Syrah, Grenache and Mourdevre grape varieties, so it's a pretty typical d'Oc mix. What is different, of course, is that by definition this organic wine will come from far lower yielding vines. This usually means better quality and higher prices. In this case the quality is there but the price is very reasonable. This follows up a cigar box nose with a really distinct spicy peppery in your face flavour with a toffee apple finish that will not be to everyone's taste. I think it's pretty good - perhaps with Chinese food.

Chateau Vieux Gabiron Entre deux Mers Organic 1998 - Asda, reduced from £4.57 to £3.77: Entre deux Mers - literally between two seas - is a region of Bordeaux between the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers. As you would expect from a white Bordeaux it is a blend of Sauvignon, Semillon and Muscadelle grapes. White Bordeaux are having a little bit of a revival at the moment and although Entre deux Mers can be a bit boring and samey this Chateau bottled example is anything but. Asparagus and pineapple on the nose followed up with lots of ripe fruit nicely offset by some crisp acidity give a really refreshing mouthfeel. First class - I would thoroughly recommend it, probably on its own.

Francis Young is the owner of the Pear Tree at Purton, Wilts.

February 12, 2002 12:00