You'll be as snug as a bug at Blakes Bistro

Around that time, my colleague Margaret Thomas reviewed it and said what a snug, romantic place it was. Aha, I thought. What a good place to go courting. I never did, for no reason in particular, until this series of reviews. So, without telling my wife where we were going, we set off for West Street and my romantic destiny. The restaurant did not disappoint.

Blakes, although small and intimate with its low-lighting and small tables, does not technically measure up to inclusion in this month's Winter Warmers category. If, at the end of a cold, winter's day, you wanted somewhere with a crackling log fire that served thick soup and wedges of bread big enough to sink the Titanic, then you should probably go elsewhere.

If, however, you want food so good it would not be out of place in a top London restaurant at a price that is surprisingly low, then Blakes should be top of your list.

A couple of large parties had cancelled the night my wife and I visited. "That's their loss," my sated wife commented at the end of our meal. True. But perhaps the atmosphere would have been improved a little had there been more than one other couple there when we arrived. Sometimes the more people in a room the more intimate your own experience seems.

Service was superb -- although with so few other diners, anything else would have been surprising. As well as the fixed menu, the bistro chalks up the day's specials.

I chose onion tart from this, while my wife went for a trio of smoked fish served with melba toast as a starter.

My tart was fantastic. Eating it was an experience. I held each mouthful on my tongue for as long as possible so I could savour every taste. I kid you not. The pastry was exactly the right consistency, the sauce that accompanied it, awesome. My wife, who doesn't normally eat fish, was enjoying her dish -- double marks.

There isn't much choice for vegetarians for main courses -- in fact, turban of aubergine served with four cheeses in a warm tomato and herb sauce was all I could have. No matter, it too was fantastic. Absolutely fantastic. Once again, every mouthful bled flavour. I didn't want it to end. If I could have licked the plate I would have done.

The dish was served with duchess potatoes. Every meal has the option of these or French Fries. When I ordered my potatoes, the waiter said: "I had you down as a fries man." I don't know what he meant, perhaps it's because I now live in Wycombe.

My wife chose fries with her breast of chicken. He didn't comment, but she's far more glamorous than me. Perhaps he thought she was just slumming it to make me feel better. Chicken can be a funny thing in restaurants, but this piece was succulent and juicy. I thought the fries were nothing special, I was glad I had little swirls of potato to soak up my flavoursome juices, but my wife thought they were delicious.

The list of desserts cannot be ignored. Everything on it is tempting. My chocolate marquise came in a mint sauce. Again it was superb. Its warm stickiness was the closest the meal came to being snug as my mouth warmed. My wife's creme brulee came with a raspberry top which was innovative, but didn't quite work. The sharpness somehow took something away from the sweetness -- which is what creme brulee is all about.

We had a glass of Merlot with our meal, which accompanied it nicely, but was served too cold and, consequently, was a little sharp. But really, I'm picking holes.

Blakes Bistro was worth the wait. I only wish I had gone before. It's the sort of place that you can confidently take friends to, safe in the knowledge that they will think of you as a person of great taste and breeding.

As long, that is, as you don't get accused of looking like you have chips with everything. Menu Onion tart: £3

Trio of smoked fish and melba toast: £3.25

Breast of chicken: £7.70

Turban of aubergine with four cheese and a warm tomato and herb sauce: £7

Chocolate marquise served with a mint sauce: £3

Creme brulee and raspberries: £3

Two glasses of red wine @ £2.30: £4.60

Total: £31.55 Quality of food: Wonderful. I wouldn't feel bad paying £200 for it in a swank Mayfair eatery (well, yes I would, but you know what I mean).

Quantity of food: The pig in me says more, more, more. But really the portions were exactly right.

Staff: Very friendly. But take change to tip as there is no way of adding it on if paying by card (sorry).

Would you recommend it? Probably the best in Marlow.

Snug factor: A warm whisper on a cold day. Blakes Bistro, 31 West Street, Marlow (01628) 488155

Converted for the new archive on 30 June 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.