Jeremy Austin needs to cool off after sampling the delights of the Country Thai Restaurant in Gerrards Cross

WHO'S making this Thai restaurant/ country pub connection? So far three of the restaurants reviewed this month have been connected to timber-beamed olde worlde pubs.

But, whereas, the others had tried to take diners' minds off their very English surroundings by adding decorations from the country of the cuisine's origin, the Country Thai Restaurant, at the Three Pigeons, Austenwood Lane, Gerrards Cross, did no such thing.

"Judge us on the food and nothing else," the owners seemed to be saying.

It's certainly a full menu at the restaurant. For starters, as ever, we opted for chicken satay and vegetable spring rolls. These were bought to the table on the same plate and shared the same dips -- chilli, peanut and the sticky, sweet one. More discerning vegetarians would baulk at the idea of the greasy chicken infecting the dips and touching the spring rolls. I just closed my eyes and thought of Thailand -- a task made easier as the spring rolls burst spicely on to the tongue They were the best yet, although the chicken was a little flakey.

The colour of this week's curry was green -- medium hot and poured on to vegetables that included bamboo shoots, cauliflower and broccoli. Thai food is supposed to contain five flavours. The problem with bamboo shoots is that they tend to dominate any dish in which they are included. Although the curry was fine with a wonderfully aniseed tang (probably a combination of the spices included), it had an odd aftertaste which must have been the bamboo.

My companion's stir fried beef with chilli and sweet basil was hot -- very hot. Two glasses of water and a large proportion of a bottle of wine were needed to quell the fire. Again that experience tended to dominate the taste, which was a shame, because it was all beautifully cooked.

As mine had been a little spicy too, I opted for the very traditional (ahem) vanilla ice cream with cream and chocolate sauce, while my partner was more adventurous with her order of country Thai ice cream -- coconut cooked in a palm sugar, rolled in a pancake and served with ice cream. Both dishes cooled the mouth and won us over as satisfied customers. Vegetable spring rolls: £3.95

Chicken satay: £ £4.50

Green curry: £5.95

Stir fried beef with chilli and sweet basil: £5.50

Steamed Thai fragrant rice: £1.75

Country Thai ice cream: £2.50

Vanilla ice cream: £2.50

Bottle of wine: £6.95

Total: 35.35

n This is an independent review. Quality of food: Flavours unsubtle to say the least, but generally very good

Quantity of food: Just the right amount

Value for money: Not bad

Would you recommend it? It's not the best, but it will do

Appropriate pun: Neat and Thai-dy Country Thai Restaurant, Three Pigeons, Austenwood Lane, Gerrards Cross (01753) 893698

Converted for the new archive on 30 June 2000. Some images and formatting may have been lost in the conversion.