Jeremy Austin satisfies his curiosity and his appetite with a visit to the Tuptim Thai restaurant in Flackwell Heath

ONE of the reasons behind choosing to review Thai food this month was the opportunity to include a visit to the Tuptim Thai restaurant in Flackwell Heath.

It has always looked enticing but I have never actually managed to sample a meal there.

The one time I did walk through the door was on Valentine's Day last year, when I was wearing a black velvet, pinstripe suit and a red, large-collared shirt. As soon as my wife and I set foot through the door a foul-mouthed, and rather tarty-looking young female diner sitting opposite the door shouted: "Look at that poof". We left.

This time it was much quieter when we arrived, early on a Saturday evening. We were shown to our table for two, sandwiched rather tightly between two other tables for couples. This is not a place to get intimate, unless it is with the stranger sitting on the table next to you.

This is a feeling reinforced when the main course is served. It comes on a rather tall serving dish, which tends to obscure your view of the person sitting opposite you. The service, however, was prompt and polite.

Sateh is our benchmark dish. The beef was succulent, although the sauce dishes were a little shallow. Their contents had to be used sparingly. I opted for kratong thong - Thai pancakes filled with dried cabbage and sprinkled with sesame seeds. They had to be dipped into a sweet sauce before eating.

The main course divided us. My gaeng ped pak, mixed seasonal vegetables in a red curry sauce and coconut milk, was very tasty - attaining that careful Thai balance between being spicy and mouth-burning. A khao suay, a scented, steamed rice, took the edge off, while a side order of khao pad pak bai kaprow, chillis and vegetable rice with sweet basil, added another range of spices, possibly cinnamon, to the experience.

My partner was not as content with her chicken Gaeng Mussaman, which, although wonderfully spicy and full of exotic flavour, was made mainly from grey meat and not the succulent white she had expected.

A glass of house white picked up the flavours in the mouth and made them dance. It matched the food perfectly. Water is also a wise addition, although ask for tap - the bottled variety is a little expensive.

Was the Tuptim Thai worth the wait? The jury is still out. Menu Kratong thong: £4.20

Sateh neau: £5.50

Gaeng ped pak: £5.60

Gaeng mussaman: £5.95

Khao suay: £2.25

Khao pad pak bai kaprow: £4.90

Bottle of mineral water: £3.75

Glass of wine: £2.30

Total: £34.45 Quality of food: Very good range for vegetarians. Very tasty.

Quantity of food: More sauce needed for the sateh, but the rest seemed just about right.

Value for money: Average.

Would you recommend it? I wouldn't disuade people. It is very clean and friendly and probably better for a crowd.

Appropriate pun: A Thai-t squeeze.

This is an independent review Tuptim Thai, Straight Bit, Flackwell Heath. (01628) 521808 Restaurant rating

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